In over 39 years of experience we have found that our clients prefer an accurate price based upon their specific problem. Most phone quotes given by plumbing companies are low and will usually change once there is an actual site inspection of the problem. In person, our plumber will be able to correctly diagnose your problem, give you an exact price and guarantee that price in writing.  Quite often we have discovered upon arrival the price the homeowner asked for over the phone was not actually what needed to be replaced or repaired.

Charging by the job is simply more efficient.  You receive one price which includes all parts, labour and warranty to complete your work regardless of how long it takes.  It will not depend upon who the plumber is or how fast or slow he may or may not be.  You will know how much your final invoice is before we even begin work.

Although we can appreciate you feel you have properly diagnosed your problem, there are many things you, as a homeowner, may have overlooked. Our plumber may discover a small problem that could have gone undetected, causing a major problem, with major costs, if not repaired.  Or he may be able to fix your problem at a lesser cost.  Quite often we have even discovered upon inspection that it was a different problem than what the homeowner told us. An example of this, we had a customer call in saying their hot water tank was leaking.  When we arrived we discovered that it was their humidifier line next to it that was actually leaking.  They could have been receiving quotes for the wrong problem and spent much more time and money.

Our plumbers have received professional training on the latest technology and plumbing codes to ensure the safety of your home and your family.  They are background checked, drug tested and receive ongoing training.  They arrive right on schedule in a fully stocked service vehicle so they won’t have to leave to get parts, which saves you time and money.

Additionally, with each paid service call, you may ask for a free 80 point plumbing inspection report designed to reveal any safety issues, future repairs and where you could save water and money.

We believe that a minimal service fee of $79.00 is a small amount compared to the value homeowners receive from getting a skilled plumber, quality workmanship and professional parts with a solid 100% written satisfaction guarantee.

Also, unlike some other plumbing companies, we do not “hide” that service fee amount within each repair cost just so we can say there are no other extra charges.  After all, that plumber’s wages, fuel and other expenses need to be covered somehow when he comes to your home, whichever company it is.  We prefer to be upfront and honest.  And wouldn’t you rather deal with a company who is upfront about all their prices and other variables?

The most common culprit is the toilet.  Did you know that a running on toilet can waste up to 750 – 3,000 litres (200 – 800 U.S. gallons) of water per day?  The easiest way to find out if your toilet is leaking is by dropping a toilet leak test tablet or a few drops of food colouring into your tank.  Do not flush.  If the water in your toilet bowl changes colour after 20 – 30 minutes, it indicates that water is leaking.

Also check underneath your sinks, particularly at the back, for moisture or leaks.  A leak here can waste up to 75 litres (20 gallons) of water per day.

Your furnace humidifier should be checked regularly for signs of degradation and leaking.  This too can waste hundreds of litres of water and give you a high water bill.  It could also cause damage to your furnace.

Other areas to check are your hot water heater, water softener, fridge water line/valve, dishwasher piping, washing machine hoses/valves, outside taps and underground sprinkler system.

Helpful Tip:  How to easily check if you have a silent leak in your home

As mentioned above, there could be several reasons for a high water bill.  To easily determine if you have a leak somewhere in your home, observe your water meter.  Checked on a regular basis you can prevent receiving a high water bill and save money.

First, locate your inside water meter close to where your main shut off valve is which is usually found near the hot water tank or furnace or even in a crawlspace.

Next, turn off all water-using devices.  This includes your dishwasher, washing machine,  sprinkler system, the water/ice maker in your fridge and your humidifier.  Make sure no one uses the toilets, sinks or any water during this time as that will mess up the test.

Most water meters will have a small red or black triangle that spins to show “micro” water usage. If everything is off (including your furnace humidifier and fridge icemaker!) then even a dripping faucet will show up as that triangle will move.  If it isn’t moving at all over the next 2 minutes, then you probably don’t have a leak.  If it is moving, even slowly, try to locate the source of the problem as listed above and/or call a plumber.

If it’s a single drip, say, one drip per minute, it may not waste much water – only about 112 – 150 litres (30 – 40 U.S. gallons) per year.  But most faucets drip more than that.  Let’s say one faucet had an average drip of 20 per minute and the other one drips more often at 40 drips per minute.  Both of them together would add up to over 14,000 litres (nearly 4,000 U.S. gallons) per year.  That would make a higher water bill and is also hard on your faucets, sinks and drains.  If thousands of homes left dripping faucets or running on toilets it would eventually drastically increase your sewer costs as that much more water has to be processed at the treatment plant.  It is also a good idea to be environmentally responsible at the same time as saving money.

Sometimes you can do your own simple repair to save money such as changing a washer or cartridge or cleaning out an aerator.  If you are not a handy person, having a plumber take care of it would be best.  And sometimes it just makes sense to replace the faucet with a new one that would also be a water efficient one.  That way you could save even more water … and money.  Your plumber would be able to advise you.

New water efficient showerheads are designed to restrict the flow of water to about 2 or 2.5 gallons per minute (7.5 – 9.5 litres) but do not affect water pressure.

An average home built before 1992 typically has a standard 4 – 5 gallons per minute (15 – 19 litres) showerhead.

Comparison Totals:  a long 45 minute shower with old showerhead:  180 – 225 gallons (681 – 851 litres) vs. a new water efficient showerhead:  90 – 112 gallons (340 – 424 litres).  That’s a water savings of approximately 90 gallons (340 litres) per shower!  Most new, good quality showerheads are designed to deliver good water pressure, sometimes even better than the old showerheads.  Some models even have a small valve on them to turn the water off between washing and rinsing.  It would be a smart idea to conserve water while saving money not only on your water bill but your hot water heater bill too.

We get asked this question a lot.

When the first low flow or water saving toilets came out in the late 80’s, manufacturers simply replaced some parts in the tank to reduce the amount of water being used to flush.  And yes, this meant the toilets clogged frequently and/or had to be double flushed, defeating the purpose.  In the 90’s, they started making changes but the 2” rough, unfinished lining in the drain line just couldn’t clear the toilet with so much less water and so again they clogged easily.

By 2004 the Canadian Water and Wastewater Association developed a “MaP” test to determine how much waste could be removed in one flush.  Today most water-efficient toilets have been completely re-engineered to perform well and most now have a 3” glazed trapway to move things along.  A good quality name brand toilet will easily outperform any older toilet AND save you money with every flush.  In fact, the amount of money you will save with each flush will pay for the new toilet in about one to two years and then continue to save you money year after year!

Helpful Tip:  How to check if you have a leak in your home

The most common culprit for a high water bill is the toilet.  Toilets generally account for about 30% of your total water usage in the home. Older toilets can use up to 24 litres of water per flush compared to new efficient toilets that only use 4.8 litres or less per flush.  Therefore, a running on toilet can waste up to 750 – 3,000 litres (200 – 800 U.S. gallons) of water per day.  That would add up to 275,000 – 1,000,000 litres per year!  And a very high water bill!

The easiest way to find out if your toilet is leaking is by dropping a toilet leak test tablet or a few drops of food colouring into your tank.  Do not flush.  If the water in your toilet bowl changes colour after 20 – 30 minutes, it indicates that water is leaking.

An easy way to determine if you have a leak elsewhere in your home is by observing your water meter.  Checked on a regular basis you can prevent receiving a high water bill in the mail and save money.

First, locate your inside water meter which is close to your main shut off valve which is usually found in the basement near the hot water tank or furnace or even in a crawlspace.

Next, turn off all water-using devices.  This includes your dishwasher, washing machine,  air conditioner, sprinkler system, the water/ice maker in your fridge and your furnace humidifier.  Make sure no one uses the toilets, sinks or any water during this time as that will mess up the test.

Most water meters will have a small red or black triangle that spins to show “micro” water usage. If everything is off (including your icemaker!) then even a dripping faucet will show up as that triangle will move.  If it isn’t moving at all over the next 15 minutes, then you probably don’t have a leak.  If it is moving, even very slowly, try to locate the source of the problem.

Check underneath your sinks, particularly at the back, for moisture, mould or leaks.  A leak here can waste up to 75 litres (20 gallons) of water per day.

Your furnace humidifier should also be checked for signs of leaking.  This too can waste hundreds of litres of water and give you a high water bill.  It could also cause damage to your furnace.

Other areas to check are your hot water heater, water softener, fridge water line/valve, dishwasher piping, washing machine hoses/valves, outside taps and underground sprinkler system.

If you can’t locate the problem or need a plumbing repair done, please call your plumber.

There are a number of reasons for noises in pipes.  They could either be coming from the supply system or the drainage system.  It could indicate any one of the following:  that a toilet or faucet repair is needed, water pressure needs to be addressed, lines need to be “purged” or pipes need to be supported.  Your plumber is trained to determine the cause of the noises and perform the necessary repairs.

Plumbing systems were designed to prevent sewer gases from entering your home by means of a trap attached to each plumbing fixture that contains water and/or seal to block them out.  From our experience, most people rarely use their basement washrooms and this water or seal dries up.  To solve this problem, simply pour about 1 litre of water in each sink, shower and floor drain once a week to prevent these odours from entering the house.  And don’t forget to flush the toilet too!  If that does not solve the problem, it could be that one of the seals needs replacing or the toilet gasket is worn out or was improperly installed.  It could also mean that the washroom has not been properly piped or vented.  Please contact a professional.

Non-freeze taps, or hosebibs, are designed to withstand colder temperatures as the valve is located inside the wall instead of outside.  Although this makes them less likely to burst, they still have to be correctly drained before the weather gets too cold. To prevent freezing and potential water damage:

1. Turn off the valve for the hosebib inside the house.
2. Go outside and disconnect and drain the garden hose. Leave off for winter and store in garage, shed or basement.
3. Turn on outside hosebib to drain and leave open for winter.  This will reduce pressure in the valve/piping should freezing temperatures occur.
4. Go back to the inside valve and open drain bleeder (small lever or screw on the side of the valve) to completely drain all water.
5. Close bleeder along with the inside valve for winter.

For further information, please click here.

There could be a number of things causing this.  It is possible that your shower/bathtub drain is clogged or the air vent is being blocked.  It could also be a main sewer line back-up.  In either case we suggest calling a professional.

If you live in a municipality, it could be chlorine or ammonia.  If you live in a rural area, the most likely cause is iron in the water.  A water test would determine the cause and then a proper solution could be provided, such as a chlorine filter or iron water filter.

A sump pump should be piped different than a sewage pump. I believe you have a sewage ejector pump vs. a sump pump. Generally a sump pump takes care of ground water issues while a sewage ejector pump takes care of waste water, like for your laundry room or basement washroom. If your bathtub and sink are backing up in the upper level, I would suggest that you have the line snaked and checked over by a professional as you may have other problems.

There could be several reasons for this. First, unplug your sump pump or turn off the breaker to prevent the motor from burning up. It sounds like something could be jammed in the pump and/or your pit needs clearing out.  Over time, small pebbles or even pieces of debris can cause problems.  With the power off to the pump, lift it out and check and remove any debris.

In addition to checking the pump, check the pit to see if it is free of debris and loose pebbles so as not to clog the pump again just when you most need it to work.  Ensure that the float is allowed to move freely to function correctly.  Check the discharge line outside and clear it of any ice, gravel and debris to prevent water from backing up into your home.

We also recommended you regularly test your pump and inspect your pit.  To test your sump pump, pour a couple of buckets of water into the pit to see if it turns on and removes the water.

If you have a battery back-up sump pump, check the battery.  If you don’t have one, consider getting one installed in case of a power outage which usually occurs during heavy rain storms.  And don’t forget to completely clean out the pit every few years.

Your discharge line could be frozen,blocked by debris or snow or broken, therefore the water has nowhere to go but back in.  Check where the line exits.  The problem could also be a check valve not functioning.  Depending if you are on septic as well, you could have a broken pipe or a leak in the tank leaching water into the ground.  Look to see if the grass is greener or if it’s soggy around the septic.  If you can’t locate and solve the problem please call a professional.

A backwater valve, also called a backflow preventer, is a device installed on the sewer line or drainage line in the basement of a house to prevent the sewer from backing up into your home. Whenever there are heavy rains, the sewers can’t handle the extra water so the excess water backs up into the surrounding homes.  A backwater valve is basically a flap that closes to prevent that sewer water from coming into the home.

The valve is usually installed in the same area as the clean-out used for the sewer or drain line.  That means the pipe in the basement will have to be dug up to install this valve.  An access cover will be needed so the valve can be maintained and tested regularly.

A backwater valve is a mechanical device in a dirty environment that requires regular maintenance and cleaning. Manufacturer’s recommendations for the type and frequency of maintenance should be carefully followed.  Generally it needs to be tested and cleaned once annually to ensure it will work when you need it the most.  You can either do this yourself or call a professional.

The backwater valve also will need some parts changed every few years but overall it is a very good investment to protect your home and belongings.  The cost of a professional clean-up and loss of personal items for just one flooding is generally much higher than having a backwater valve installed.

Should you decide to have one installed, make sure the company is qualified to do so.  Installation of a backwater valve is not simple or easy and needs to be performed by a licensed and qualified plumber.  Ask for proof of the plumber’s licence and insurance and verify the plumber’s experience in this area. Because there are a number of code requirements pertaining to backwater valves, a plumbing permit is required for installation. A plumbing inspection following installation will confirm that the contractor has installed it correctly.

Does a backwater valve guarantee there won’t be any more backups?  No. The valve needs to be installed correctly, including the location, orientation and position. If the plumber is not diligent in ensuring that the manufacturer’s specifications are followed, the backwater valve may not operate correctly when you need it to.  If the valve has not been correctly maintained since installation as per manufacturer’s specifications, it may not function as expected. Take the time to understand how it is to be installed, how it works and how to maintain it.

If you live in an area that is prone to flooding or are in a low-lying area, a backwater valve would be a good investment so you won’t have to worry about sewer back-ups.  Some cities even offer subsidies or rebates to have them installed.  Check with your local area.

PLEASE NOTE:  Don’t forget that if backwater valve closes during a time of heavy rain or rapid snow melting, that means your drainage line is sealed off from the sewer line and sewage can’t leave your home.  Don’t use a lot of water such as doing laundry, using the dishwasher, showering or flushing all the toilets.  With your home’s plumbing having limited storage capacity, it means that it will quickly fill up and the sewage will start backing up into your home due to the valve being closed.  A rainstorm is not the time to catch up on laundry!  Some who had backwater valves installed still had their homes flooded.  Needless to say they were quite surprised to hear that they did it to themselves.

SEE BLOG ARTICLE CALLED “Backwater Valves – Do You Need One?”

Frequent septic back-ups could be due to any number of causes.  Maybe you have dripping faucets or running on toilets that add additional water to your system.  Just one running on toilet loses up to 750 – 3,000 litres of water per day which could fill up a standard septic tank in as little as two days in addition to regular daily usage.  Your system may not be able to process it quickly enough.  The excess water may also cause damage to your leachfield.

Perhaps you’re using ‘extra thick and soft’ toilet paper which can’t be broken down quickly enough for a septic system.  It can also block your baffle at the inlet to your tank.  Try switching to a standard two-ply toilet paper.  Or maybe someone is flushing too much toilet paper or other paper products.  The only thing that should be flushed down a toilet is human waste and toilet paper.

Other paper products such as paper towels and facial tissues are too dense and aren’t designed to break down quickly which can therefore cause back-ups.  So can personal hygiene products such as tampons, baby wipes, condoms, cotton balls, etc.  Make sure these are always thrown in the garbage.

Fats, oils, grease and food also can block the inlet and outlet pipes and drainfield.  Be sure to pour all grease into containers and dispose in garbage and scrape/wipe off plates well before washing.  Garburators are a big no-no if you are on a septic.

The use of bleach, chemicals and anti-bacterial products interfere with the natural breakdown of waste and should not be used or used very sparingly.  Liquid fabric softeners are the worst as they also clog the bed and lead to a complete breakout.  Switch to dryer sheets or try natural dryer balls which work just as well for static control.

If your septic backs up again, check the baffle at the inlet pipe as toilet paper, grease and debris could get caught there not allowing waste from the house to go to the tank.  We recommend clearing your baffles twice annually to prevent back-ups.

Check all the fixtures in your home such as your toilets, faucets, showers, humidifier, softener and filter for signs of leaking.  Make any necessary changes to your daily routine to help improve your septic system.

You may also want to consider using a natural biological product to help break down grease, hair and organic waste in your home and septic such as Bio-Clean.

If on an Aquarobic septic system, get it serviced at least once annually to prevent back-ups and costly repairs.  To get a copy of “Aquarobic Care and Maintenance” please click here.  It covers do’s and don’ts, signs of trouble and what’s included in a service call. Even if you don’t have an Aquarobic septic system, this information will still be useful.

On average, depending upon size of tank, number of people in household and usage of water, your septic tank shouldn’t have to be pumped out more often than once every 3 – 5 years to remove sludge buildup.

If you would like some help to get to the cause of your problem, please give our office a call at 1-888-458-1979.

Believe it or not, you’re not alone in asking this question.  Most of the time it IS a plumbing problem but occasionally we have found that it is an eavestrough, downspout or roof problem.  This will help you narrow it down.

How to check if you have a leak in your home

The most common culprit for leaking and a high water bill is the toilet.  Toilets generally account for about 30% of your total water usage in the home. Older toilets can use up to 24 litres of water per flush compared to new efficient toilets that only use 4.8 litres or less per flush.  Therefore, a running on toilet can waste up to 750 – 3,000 litres (200 – 800 U.S. gallons) of water per day.  That would add up to 275,000 – 1,000,000 litres per year!  And a very high water bill!

The easiest way to find out if your toilet is leaking is by dropping a toilet leak test tablet or a few drops of food colouring into your tank.  Do not flush.  If the water in your toilet bowl changes colour after 20 – 30 minutes, it indicates that water is leaking.  The toilet could also have a very small leak/crack in the flange which slowly releases water into the floor beneath and will eventually show up as a small puddle on the floor or come through the ceiling.

An easy way to determine if you have a leak elsewhere in your home is by observing your water meter.  Checked on a regular basis you can prevent receiving a high water bill in the mail and save money.

First, locate your inside water meter which is close to your main shut off valve and is usually found in the basement near the hot water tank, furnace or even in a crawlspace.

Next, turn off all water-using devices.  This includes your dishwasher, washing machine,  sprinkler system, air conditioner, the water/ice maker in your fridge and your humidifier.  Make sure no one uses the toilets, sinks or any water during this time as that will mess up the test.

Most water meters will have a small red or black triangle that spins to show “micro” water usage. If everything is off (including your icemaker!) then even a dripping faucet will show up as that triangle will move.  If it isn’t moving at all over the next 15 minutes, then you probably don’t have a leak.  If it is moving, even very slowly, try to locate the source of the problem.  Each full rotation of the hand or dial indicates that approximately 100 litres of water has been used.

If you want to confirm that you don’t have even the smallest leak, write down the meter reading numbers and don’t use any water for several hours then read the numbers again.  If they haven’t changed you don’t have a leak.  If the numbers have changed, continue searching your home for the cause.

Check underneath your sinks, particularly at the back, for moisture, mould or leaks.  A leak here can waste up to 75 litres (20 gallons) of water per day.

Your furnace humidifier should also be checked for signs of leaking.  This too can waste hundreds of litres of water and give you a high water bill.  It could also cause damage to your furnace.

Other areas to check are your hot water heater, water softener, fridge water line and valve, dishwasher piping, washing machine hoses and valves, outside taps and underground sprinkler system.  In the laundry room, it could also be a trap seal primer problem.  Trap seal primers protect the trap in the floor drain from drying up which keeps sewer gases from entering your home.

We’ve even seen several clients leave their garden hoses on which not only cost them money but in a few cases overwhelmed their sump pumps or caused their wells to dry up!

If you can’t locate the problem or need a plumbing repair done, please call your plumber.

When it comes to a hot water heater, regular maintenance is key to extending its life.  Typically hot water tanks last about 10 – 16 years.  Changing the anode rod every 2-3 years (more often if high iron content) and flushing the tank every year can make a huge difference and greatly extend the life of your hot water tank.  As for any signs of impending trouble, listed below a few things to watch for:

1. If you don’t have any hot water – The element, igniter or another component may not be working, the pilot light could be out or it may be an electrical problem.  Even if you managed to get it up and running on your own, it may only be temporary.
2. If your water smells or has a metallic/iron taste – The anode rod should be changed and the hot water tank checked. You should also make sure the temperature is set correctly for your type of hot water tank to prevent the growth of bacteria that causes Legionnaire’s disease.  It should be 60 degrees C (140 degrees F) for electric tanks and 50 degrees C (122 degrees F) for oil or propane tanks.  A mixing/tempering valve should be installed on the hot water tank or on each fixture to prevent scalding.  You may also want to get your water tested.
3. If your water is rusty, cloudy or has sediment in it – There is a build up of minerals inside the tank and on the heating elements.
4. If the hot water tank makes noises while heating up, like cracks, groans and pops – Your heating element is probably coated with mineral deposits and is struggling to function.
5. If your water isn’t as hot anymore – The heating element again could be a problem or one of the other components.  It could also be a faulty mixing/tempering valve.
6. Leaking from the top – It may be a mixing valve problem, or a loose cold water inlet or hot water outlet connection.
7. Leaking at the bottom – It could be as simple as tightening the drain valve at the bottom.  If there is a lot of water, your hot water tank has deteriorated and needs replacing.

Any leak, no matter how small, will not go away over time and is a warning sign of a bigger problem.  If you experience any of the above it’s best to call a professional before things get worse.